Sipping beverages, typing away on the keyboard has never looked more dramatic ever since the age of nail extensions came in. Some gloss, some gel, and a whole lot of sparkle and bling. So much so, you can now even add personality to your nails with charms because you want your nails to nail it!
Yes, social media is a big driving factor. Have you seen all those celebrity proposals? It’s not just about that big diamond ring, but those nails too! Nail art has become a form of expression of style that comes in gel, acrylic nails, dip powder embellished nails. But behind Instagrammable glossy tips and perfect shapes, there are things no one really talks about.
From cuticle damage, infection risk and now even an ingredient ban in nail polish – the details can make or break your nail game. For the uninitiated, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO) has been banned by the European Union. More on that later.
But before you book your next appointment, here’s what dermatologists want you to know about nail extensions – the good, the bad, and the misconceptions.
The health risks
Every coin has two sides and nothing comes without its cons. Similarly, the exercise of getting nail extensions has a flipside too.
Acrylic nails, for instance, may lead to a painful condition called onycholysis, where the nail plate detaches from the nail bed. This often happens because the adhesives used for bonding extensions create a stronger hold than the natural nail. Allergens like formaldehyde, commonly found in some nail hardeners, can also trigger painful reactions in sensitive individuals.
Another concern is the use of UV lamps to cure gel polishes. These lamps emit UV-A radiation, which has been classified as a carcinogen and, with prolonged exposure, can increase the risk of skin damage and even cancer. Nail extensions and adornments can also hide early signs of nail abnormalities, potentially delaying the diagnosis of serious conditions such as malignant melanoma.
It’s not just clients who face risks – the technicians and salon workers are also exposed. Prolonged inhalation of chemical fumes and fine dust particles can affect their respiratory health.
Adding to the list of concerns is the recent ban on trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO) – a chemical commonly used in gel nail polishes to harden them under UV or LED light. The European Union has officially banned TPO and classified it as carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction (CMR 1B). The US and India have not banned it yet, and experts believe this is more of a precautionary measure than a preventive one.
The myths and common mistakes to avoid
While these risks are real, not everything you’ve heard about nail extensions is true. A lot of concerns stem from half-baked information and salon myths. You can even mitigate certain risks by making more informed and mindful choices.
Dermatologists bust some of the most common misconceptions.
Is UV light inevitable?
Turns out, not really.
One of the lesser-known facts about getting your nails done is the assumption that all types need UV curing. “Some nail extensions do not require UV light at all, and this is something a lot of people don’t know,” Dr. Shweta Tripathi, senior consultant dermatologist and co-founder of My Skindom Skin Clinic tells India Today.
Why is UV light a problem? Excessive exposure to UV light used to cure polish can increase the long-term risk of skin cancer, as the rays tend to damage your skin cells.
One can also use protective stockings, meant to cover your palm while under UV light.
However, there are now options such as powder or stick-on nails that don’t require UV or LED light. They can be easily air-dried.
Moreover, dip powder nails tend to last longer than their gel counterparts. The removal process can be slightly tedious for those though.
Can extensions weaken your nails?
One of the most common things associated with nail extensions is that they weaken your nails. But if applied and removed correctly, experts say that they don’t inherently weaken nails.
“The issue usually happens when the application or removal is done incorrectly, or when the cuticle protection is compromised,” says Dr. Tripathi.
The cuticle mistake
If you’ve got your nails done before, you would know that in order to “prep” the nails for the glow-up, professionals push back the cuticles and even trim them. That process can damage the nail.
“It depends on the technician now. If they push back the cuticle too hard, it can easily damage the nail. Again, if the nails are chipped off too much, it hinders healthy regrowth as cuticles are the nail’s natural defence barrier,” Dr. Tripathi cautions.
Resist the DIY removal
Removing extensions at home is one of the biggest mistakes and is often the reason behind most manicure horror stories. You think you can remove them by yourself? You should not.
Always resist the urge to take the matter in your hands to get rid of the nail extensions, and visit the nail parlour instead for a proper and safe removal process. “The glue attaches to your natural nail bed, and it requires proper channelling and removal by a professional,” Dr. Tripathi warns. Doing it yourself can cause breakage, bleeding, or even rip the nail out.
Many people also feel that press-on nails at home are comparatively safer. While they are definitely a better option, but in some cases the damage can still occur if they are not correctly applied or removed.
Additionally, remember not to use your nail extensions to open or close lids. Doing so weakens your natural nails and can cause breakage or bleeding.
Nail extensions checklist
Make sure you check the following factors before getting your nails done:
- Your nail health: Firstly, check if your nails are even healthy enough for that extension glow-up? According to Dr. Akanksha Singh, senior cosmetologist, SENS Clinic, you should ensure that your nails are of good thickness. If they have become too thin or brittle, then you are not an ideal candidate for getting nail extensions.
- Salon hygiene: Sterilisation of equipment is a must.
- Technician experience: Don’t compromise quality for cheap bargains or your nails will pay the price.
When to see a doctor
Experts share that nail health issues triggered by extensions are quite prevalent.
“Roughly, we see around four to five cases every month who have had nail extensions and come for fungal infection or thinning of the nail bed or erosion,” says Dr. Singh.
Meanwhile, Dr. Tripathi emphasises the sanitation of the place and the application and maintenance of the nail extension too. “Most issues come up when they try to remove the extension themselves, which can damage the nail or even pull out the original nail,” she says.
Seek medical help if you notice:
- Persistent pain, redness, swelling, or pus around the nail or cuticle
- Rashes, itching, or burning after gel applications
- Nail discolouration or changes in texture post-procedure
The care after
Extensions are a pampering treat – but care after the salon is just as important.
Experts recommend the following tips:
- If you are planning to keep your extension slightly longer, go for an optimum length of nails instead of super-long ones. Longer nails increase the risk of hygiene issues.
- To maintain nail hygiene, always clean your nail bed thoroughly, and use cuticle oil to keep the hands moisturised.
- If cracks or gaps appear, go for a refill immediately.
- Post-session, wash your hands, moisturise and reapply sunscreen.
- After two – three nail extension sessions, keep a gap of at least three to four weeks. Let the nails breathe and avoid using a polish as well.
